Absinthe – the pale green aperitif with the sharp licorice flavor – is
almost impossible to find in the United States. There are imitations out
there, but real absinthe, beloved elixir of poets and painters in Belle
Epoche Paris, was banned throughout most of the civilized world early in
the 20th century.
Photos by EVANS CAGLAGE/DMN
Maya Alexander performs the absinthe ritual at Absinthe Lounge, near
downtown.
In the past few years France, Switzerland, even Canada have relaxed the
ban. But not here. You still can't import absinthe into the U.S., though
you can legally own a bottle and drink it.
Despite – or perhaps, because of – its long status as an illegal
substance, absinthe is enjoying a big revival. Absinthe bars have sprung
up around the world. Once again, it is becoming the drink of choice
among the fashionably international.
The problem was never absinthe itself, but Artemisia absinthium, or
wormwood, the medicinal herb that gives the drink its slightly bitter
undertaste. Wormwood is a known vermicide, stimulant and possible
hallucinogen. Its presence along with absinthe's high alcohol content –
120 to 130 proof – was said to give rise to criminal behavior, violent
impulses and insanity.
Although not all absinthe is green, the drink became known as la Fée
Verte (the Green Fairy) for the imp who was supposed to appear to
hard-core absintheurs.
"Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder," a wit once quipped. In fact, some
absinthe drinkers would argue, the beverage has no particular
aphrodisiac powers beyond those of the alcohol itself.
DMN
•Place the perforated absinthe spoon across the top of the absinthe
glass.
•Put a sugar cube on the spoon and pour a jigger of absinthe over the
cube and into the glass.
•Ignite the sugar cube and let it burn a few moments, observing the deep
blue flame.
•The sugar cube will melt into the absinthe, then ...
•Pour a little cold water over the cube to douse the fire and dissolve
the remaining sugar, stirring with the spoon.
•The drink will turn a pearlescent white, called louche.
•Drink up.
Absinthe Buyers Guide: www.absinthebuyersguide.com
La Fée Verte: www.feeverte.net
The Vaults of Erowid: www.erowid.org/chemicals/absinthe/absinthe.shtml
All Things Absinthe: www.allthingsabsinthe.com
For a close look at the classic absinthe ritual, rent From Hell,
a 2001 movie featuring Johnny Depp as a Scotland Yard sleuth on the
trail of Jack the Ripper.
