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Cookbook reviews: Gooey, good grilled cheese

09:33 AM CST on Friday, November 12, 2004

Who knew there was a whole cookbook on something as prosaic as a grilled cheese sandwich?

Who knew there were two?

Seldom have we seen two books so evenly matched, from the gorgeous, oozy-cheese photos right down to the price ($16.95 each).

If grilled cheese is your idea of a cheap, fast meal for the kids, keep shopping. But if you stall out in front of the cheese counter at Whole Foods and generally have a fridge full of "leftovers" such as prosciutto and pepperoncini, read on.

GRILLED CHEESE: 50 RECIPES TO MAKE YOU MELT

by Marlena Spieler, roving foodie and cookbook author

Range: GC goes everywhere, from appetizers to salads and even dessert.

Extras: Side salads to serve with GC, homemade mustards

Sample tip: "Weighting the sandwiches presses the bread with the cheese and other fillings, resulting in a crisper, more compact, sandwich."

Why get it? Fresh Mozzarella, Prosciutto and Fig Jam

Wha wha what? Picadillo and Jack Quesadillas on Pumpkin Tortillas

Bottom line: 50 recipes is a stretch; she should have stopped at 40.

GREAT GRILLED CHEESE: 50 INNOVATIVE RECIPES FOR STOVETOP, GRILL, AND SANDWICH MAKER

by Laura Werlin, all cheese, all the time

Range: Variety comes from changes in bread and fillings.

Extras: Recipes include method for stovetop, sandwich maker and grill.

Sample tip: "To melt the cheese sufficiently on the inside of a grilled cheese sandwich without burning the bread, you should grate the cheese rather than slice it."

Why get it? Grilled Brie With Apricot Jam

Wha wha what? Feta and Eggplant on Pita with Sesame-Yogurt Sauce

Bottom line: Where's my spatula?

DMN